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Daggerboard Slot and Paint Prep

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy, Preparation, Sanding, Tools, Woodworking

Today I flipped the boat over and cut the daggerboard slot with my router.  I did it freehand and was tough to get a straight line, but it turned out well.  The daggerboard goes through the hull, right in line with the centerline.  After I completed the cut, I rounded it over with the router.

Next I got out the sander and sanded the exterior hull in preparation for primer.  There was a lot of hand sanding too!  To finish off the day I sealed off the exposed wood in the daggerboard slot with some unthickened epoxy.

Time Spent: 4.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 145.5 Hours

Back To Work With Lots of Sanding

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Sanding, Woodworking

Today I finally got back to work on my Skerry after a few months off.  I was so busy with work and it was just so hot in South Florida that it was almost impossible to make headway.  Anyways, I got the whole interior sanded and shaped the rear seat to fit correctly.  The forward seat was a perfect fit.  It was a chore to sand in and around the rail spacers.  Lots of hand sanding!

Time Spent: 6.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 141.5 Hours

Seat Supports / Instrument Panel

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Modifications, Sanding, Tools, Woodworking

Today I used some 3/8″ Okoume ply to make some center seat supports and the removable instrument panel.  It took quite a bit of time to measure, cut and form.  I used my jigsaw, hand saw, block plane, and random orbit sander.  The panel will contain the on off/switch, battery meter, cigarette lighter / power port, iPod/USB hookup, and the battery charger.  This panel will be removable to reduce weight when not needed.  The seat supports and the panel also form a battery box.

Time Spent: 2.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 119.5 Hours

Speaker Boxes

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Modifications, Woodworking

I swear I haven’t been lazy! I have been busy and on vacation.  I got back to work by building some speaker boxes for the forward frame.  Because I cannot ensure that the speakers will be watertight, I wanted to put a box behind them in the forward frame.  This will allow me to assure that the forward buoyancy tank is impervious to water.

Time Spent: 1.5 Hours

Total Time In Build: 117.5 Hours

Making a Larger Center Seat

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Decisions, Modifications, Tools, Woodworking

Because I have chosen to add an electrical system to the Skerry, I needed to make a place for the battery.  I chose to install it under the center seat, right behind the center frame.  The battery stuck out a little bit, so I elected to make a new seat the extended 3 more inches to stern.  I traced the original seat, adding the portion I needed, then cut it with my jig saw.  I will use the original seat to cut a panel that fits vertically under the new seat.  This removable panel will house the electronics and hide the battery.

Time Spent: 1.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 116.0 Hours

Forward Frame Speaker Ports

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Mishaps, Modifications, Tools, Woodworking

So I had a little mishap to clean up today.  The Skerry comes with a half cut hole in the forward frame for an offset deck hatch.  I opened up the hole a few days ago before thinking about speaker layout.  After the electrical test I decided to mount both speakers in the forward frame.  Because the deck hatch and the speaker have a different diameter, the existing hole wouldn’t work.  It was also not symmetrical with the starboard speaker.  I opened up the hole where it was supposed to go then used some spare plywood, a jig saw, and my router to make a plug for the rest of the hole.  When sized appropriately, I glued it in with silica thickened epoxy.  When this cures, I will fill in the gaps with wood flour thickened epoxy.  While this may be a little bit unsightly, it will be out of normal view in the completed boat as it is under the forward seat overhang.  I plan to relocate the hatch to the top of the seat. I will also be using a hatch that is 2″ larger so I have better access to the waterproof compartment.

Time Spent: 1.5 Hours

Total Time In Build: 98.5 Hours

Fabricating Custom Rails – Part 4

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy, Modifications, Tools, Woodworking

Before installing the inwale of the custom Skerry rails, I used the router to make a channel from the breasthook to the center frame.  The trolling motor power wires will run inside this channel so they are hidden from normal view.  The smell of this Spanish Cedar is awesome when you are routing away the wood.

After the inwale was modified with the channel, I dry fit the rails and cut away the excess.  I thought it would be quite a challenge to bend these rails inside the hull and cut them to size, but it was quite manageable.  After the rails where cut and clamped and place I removed one side and glued it with epoxy thickened with silica.  Once one side was glued I did the other.  This kept the stress of the hull equal during installation.

Time Spent: 3.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 89.0 Hours

Trolling Motor Quick Disconnect

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Auxiliary Propulsion, Decisions, Modifications, Tools, Woodworking

This afternoon I glued all the rail spacers into place.  While waiting for them to cure, I did a little work on the aft breasthook.  I modified it to accept the inwale and also to install a quick disconnect for the trolling motor wiring.  I decided to have a quick disconnect so that I could remove the trolling motor / rudder for trailering and / or use the sail-only rudder which I plan to build.  A Japanese saw and a 1-1/8″ hole cutter was used to modify the breasthook. As you can see in the pictures, the power wires will run under the breasthook, then inside the rail to the center frame where they will connect with the battery.  In the second picture you can see how the plug connects the breasthook power to the tiller / speed control.

Time Spent: 2.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 86.0 Hours

Fabricating Custom Rails – Part 3

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Modifications, Sanding, Woodworking

It was nice to get back to work on the boat today.  I ran in the Keys 100 this past weekend and needed some recovery time.  I began today’s work by sanding the rough edges from the rail spacer that I cut last week.  Next I got out the ruler and clamps and spaced them evenly along the hull.  When I was happy, I modified the six spacers that will cap the frames.  To top off today’s work I dry fit the aft breasthook, drilled a hole for the flagstaff, and laid out the template for the trolling motor plug.

Time Spent: 2.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 84.0 Hours

Forward Breasthook and Oarlock Supports

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy, Modifications, Tools, Woodworking

This morning I cut the forward breasthook to accommodate for my modified rails.  Once it was to shape I used epoxy thickened with silica to glue it in place.  Eight screws countersunk in the rails ensure it has sufficient strength.

I also continued work on my rails by gluing 4″ pieces of rail material inside the hull which will act as oarlock supports for the fore and aft rowing stations.  These supports are also reinforced to the rail with two countersunk screws each.  I messed up when drilling one of the pilot holes.  It wasn’t deep enough and when I ran the screw it, the wooden support split at the end.  This isn’t a big deal.  The split will be filled with epoxy to prevent water intrusion and the whole thing will be hidden inside the rail anyway.

Time Spent: 1.5 Hours

Total Time In Build: 82.0 Hours

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