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Daggerboard Slot and Paint Prep

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy, Preparation, Sanding, Tools, Woodworking

Today I flipped the boat over and cut the daggerboard slot with my router.  I did it freehand and was tough to get a straight line, but it turned out well.  The daggerboard goes through the hull, right in line with the centerline.  After I completed the cut, I rounded it over with the router.

Next I got out the sander and sanded the exterior hull in preparation for primer.  There was a lot of hand sanding too!  Luckily my girlfriend helped!  To finish off the day I sealed off the exposed wood in the daggerboard slot with some unthickened epoxy.

Time Spent: 4.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 145.5 Hours

Instrument Panel and Rudder Work

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Decisions, Electrical, Epoxy, Modifications, Sanding, Tools

I have worked on the Skerry over the last few days but neglected to make post about my progress.   This post will hopefully highlight the things I did.

1) Cut some wooden blocks to mount under the seats at the forward and aft frame.  This blocks will be screwed to the frames and hull.  I will install u-bolts through them to allow the boat to be lifted at four point.  I plan to lift the boat out of the water using a davit on my dock.

2) I epoxied the center seat, waited for it to dry, then sanded all the seats.  They are ready for installation in the hull.

3) I prepared the rudder yoke by sanding, drilling out the tiller connection hole and filling with thickened epoxy, and covered the yoke with epoxy.

4) The rudder half that was fitted for the spacers in my last post was routed to allow for the motor cabling to pass through it.  The rudder yoke also has a channel on its underside for the cabling to run to the tiller.

5) I started building the tiller connection / speed control.  The speed control mechanism is directly from the minn-kota trolling motor.  It has 2 wires that run to the battery and 4 that run to the motor.  I connected the wires to it and covered the connections with liquid electrical tape.  Next, I built a small piece of wood, drilled a hole in it, and filled it with thickened epoxy.  This will then be re-drilled along with the yoke to form the connection to the rudder.  The wood piece was connected to the speed mechanism with lots of thickened epoxy.  This will soon be built up and faired with microballoon thickened epoxy.

6) I opened up the instrument panel that I built a few days ago for all the components.  They include a power switch, radio with usb connection, battery meter, on-board charger inlet, and cigarette lighter style power adapter.  Neat plastic latches that will allow the panel to clip into place are also installed.  After I made sure everything fit, I started coating the panel with epoxy.

7) I built a second blank instrument panel for use without all the electrical components.  This was made so that I can remove the battery and all the electronics to use the boat when I don’t want all the extras.  This panel was made by tracing the existing panel onto the original seat which I no longer have a use for.

8) I coated the rudder and dagger board with Interlux Pre-Kote Marine Primer.

Unfortunately I don’t have pictures off all this stuff, but you should get a pretty good idea of what I did by reading.

Time Spent: 6.5 Hours

Total Time In Build: 133.0 Hours

Beginning Rudder Head Assembly

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy, Modifications

Because my rudder is quite complex with all the electrical wiring, a lot of thought has gone into the assembly.  I glued one half to the the spacers with silica thickened epoxy and clamped it down.  This is just the beginning.  I have some routing for cabling to do before the rudder head meets the other half.  I must also primer and paint the actual rudder assembly first too.

Time Spent: 0.5 Hours

Total Time In Build: 126.5 Hours

Installing Mast Step and Speaker Boxes

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy, Modifications

I just installed the mast step using some of the same techniques I used for the daggerboard trunk: Marking the drilling pilot holes from the inside, drilling countersunk holes from the outside, gluing in place with silica thickened epoxy, then running 6 wood screws.  The speaker boxes are only attached with thickened epoxy.

Time Spent: 1.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 126.0 Hours

Epoxy Coatings

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy

I spent a little time epoxy coating the speaker boxes, rudder, and daggerboard.  The coating on the speaker boxes was quick and simple.  I don’t need them to look good as they will be hidden under the forward seat.  The daggerboard and rudder received nice smooth coats as the primer will be next to hit these surfaces.

Time Spent: 1.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 125.0 Hours

Building and Shaping the Mast Step

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy, Tools

At the base of the mast a wooden “step” is built to help support it and keep it in place.  I assembled the step with silica thickened epoxy and counter sunk wood screws.  It needed a little shaping to make it fit into the hull.  That was done with the random orbit sander.  The screw heads will be covered with wood flour thickened epoxy.

Time Spent: 1.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 124.0 Hours

Installing the Daggerboard Trunk

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy

I have long had the daggerboard trunk complete, but today it was time to install it.  I spent a good amount of time making sure it was on centerline and plumb before drilling any holes.  The trunk is epoxied to the bottom panel and to the center frame.  Countersunk screws running through those pieces ensure it is strong.  I covered up the screw heads with wood flour thickened epoxy which I will sand smooth later.

Time Spent: 1.5 Hours

Total Time In Build: 123.0 Hours

Misc Epoxy Work

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy

Today I mixed up some epoxy and thickened it with silica to do some miscellaneous gluing and hole filling.  I glued in the center seat supports that I built, glued together the mast partner, and filled in to holes for the rudder pivot bolt.  These holes will get drilled later at a smaller diameter.  This ensures it is watertight where the bolt will run through.  Gluing the seat supports was quite difficult because I had to ensure they were perfectly vertical and square to the center frame.  No pictures today as I didn’t feel there was anything worthwhile to show.

Time Spent: 2.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 121.5 Hours

Interior Fiberglass, Filling the Weave

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Epoxy, Fiberglass, Tools

After letting the first fiberglass / epoxy layer cure for about 20 hours, I quickly installed the radio and speakers to make sure the epoxy covering wire run was still functional.  I was a little worried that I had cut one of the wires when trimming away the excess fiberglass, but all was well.  Next, I put down a second coat of unthickened epoxy to fill the fiberglass weave.  This was applied with a thin nap roller.  This second coat was also supposed to cover the rest of the hull (#2/3 panels and rails).  I rolled it on where I could and used a brush on the rails.  Getting into all the rail spacers with a brush and epoxy was tedious, especially when trying to curb epoxy runs.

Time Spent: 2.5 Hours

Total Time In Build: 113.0 Hours

Fiberglassing Skerry Interior

Posted by Zachary Wiest in Electrical, Epoxy, Fiberglass

I am pooped!  I just spent 7 straight hours on the Skerry.  I began the day by taping off the seam between the bottom panel and the #1 panel on the inside of the hull.  Next, I laid the speaker wire which will run from the center to forward frame in the lap joint.  All of the laps and seams throughout the boat will get fillets of epoxy thickened with wood flour, and the fillet I taped off is the only one that needs to be below the fiberglass. The speaker wire will run under this fillet.  I filled a ziploc bag with epoxy for an easy application.  I used it like a pastry bag by cutting a hole in one corner.

While the fillets sat for a little, I cut fiberglass cloth to fit the interior of the hull.  The manual only calls for covering the bottom and #1 panels.  After the fiberglass was cut, I smoothed my fillets with a gloved, denatured alcohol soaked finger.  The fiberglass went in next and unthickened epoxy was poured on top and spread with a plastic squeegee.  After about an hour of drying time, excess fiberglass was cut out with a razor blade.

It was a long day, and now I am at work for a midnight flight, but when I get home I have to put on another coat of unthickened epoxy to fill the fiberglass weave.

Time Spent: 7.0 Hours

Total Time In Build: 110.5 Hours